Saturday, 12 September 2009

Vetiver, patchouli, iris. Name it, I'll be overdosed by that one, too.

The fragrance fair, Fragranze 7, takes place these days and today it was opened to the general public.

I came back from there a while ago totally over...everything so I had a shower, made me a salmon sandwich (there's a fragrance named Sushi impériale, did you know?), painted my toenails (no Eau d'Acétone of which I knew) and made me a big cup of strong coffee (a score of coffee fragrances out there in the wild, most of them exceedingly sweet) to give my nose a break.

The whole fair was very educational, especially for us, self-proclaimed half-experts. I got several handfuls of samples, bajillion of scented pieces of paper and some interesting information and I'll go through it all. Those who were nice to me and/or gave me samples (Keiko Mecheri, Andy Tauer, Juliette Has a Gun, Susanne Lang, Profumi delle Cinque Terre, Manuel Canovas, Olivier Durbano and a few more) will get their own posts, the latter ones only when I go through the ephemeral bits of paper.

(Yes, this heap expects me to go through and comment.)

There was a possibility to go to the matroneum of the Baptistery, today at one, so I had a break, along with a chance to get a roll of foil; sure, some nice plastic sleeve to keep my scented bits of paper would be better but one has to make do when needed.

I observed a few trends - there are local companies with rather specific background and interesting inspirations - *Tauletto (2), for example, is a wine house and I was told that one day, there was a nose tasting it and thought that it could be made into a perfume... and so they did. Indeed, from wht I can say, the fragrance reminds me of wine fairly enough, definitely more than Ex Floribus Vinis that shares the same concept but smells of, well, flowers (this one will get its own post). Or Olivier Durbano and his 'mineral' line - I'm not a troll (1), I can't say in a qualified manner how does a turquoise or jade smell but the fragrances will go on my wishlist as soon as I set it up.
Then, soliflors (and soliradices etc.). Susan Lang, I was told, even means that her fragrances be mixed; same goes for Odori - while eavesdropping, I heard the representative explaining to someone that they even have a sixpack of all their scents and that they can be mixed to one's heart's content. To each their own; and undoubtedly, there are days when I want to wear roses or sandalwood. But, well, if I'm to mix my own perfume, then I'd rather start from the scrap, thank you, than play with a handful of soliflors thinking how great a nose I am. I prefer the imaginative stream - there's something enchanting about things named, say, Bal d'Afrique or Nuit de Longchamps (Byredo will be dealt with, Lubin possibly so, too). I'll discover that saffron or cedarwood in it myself.

Now, a quick list of those that caught my attention and whom I plan to check - alas, they didn't have samples.

Perle di Bianca, inspired by the personality of Bianca Capello, Venetian noblewoman of controversial fame, she was first a mistress and then a wife of Grand Duke Francesco de'Medici. I had the possibility to try the bath oil with neroli and myrrh notes, there's something very sweet with gourmand qualities to it - it's made from hazelnut oil, that may be the thing. The perfume features notes of jasmine, citruses, amber and blackberry, with base of iris, musk and myrrh. The result is very smooth and sophisticated. I'll definitely make a trip to their shop at Bagno di Ripoli (it's somewhere around Florence, no clue where) to check without hurry.

Acqua di Stresa (site under construction) with three locally inspired fragrances, using, as I was told, local ingredients (not sure which ones).

Profumi di Cinque Terre: another newly born name, will get its own post (and I want all of their frags, damn). (Special thanks to the nice lady who gave me all the samples.)

Sigilli do not deny a sort of Roman (like, ancient Roman, although the company is located in some Gallicano nel Lazio, provincia di Roma, too) inspiration. I put my paws on five. *Claudiae, with head of tomato leaves and poppy, heart of rose and galbanum and base of patchouli and musk caught my attention by the tomato leaves, since I learned that my everlating favourite, Liberté Acidulée features these, I cannot resist trying anything that contains them. The choice proved a good one, the fragrance has a fresh air of a cold morning at the edge of a Mediterranean forest. Tuscia, old name for Tuscany, irresistible only for this, spicy, powdery, floral, musky. Smooth, discreet with a magnolia (?) undertone I'd happily skip, though. Asprosa with, if I'm right, petitgrain, bergamot, myrrh and maybe some vetiver; I think it would make a nice fresh summer fragrance if the citruses don't go bad in hot weather. Anyhow, this is the sort of citruses I like, adstringent, sharp, backed by something resiny. Thu with lots of anise that gives it the odour of sweaty armpit, no, thanks, but someone may find it sexy or something. One way or another, good and unusual fragrance. Somewhat stinky *Athunis with cedarwood, Java vetiver and musk. Very smoky, earthy and masculine, just the right thing for me. To be worn with caution lest people start calling the fire brigade, it's really smoky.

And last for now, Prudence. Based in Provence, making everything of white flowers. Just now, I have the sweet citrusy woodsy Stewart under my nose - and I love the presentation, too, with gilded statuettes of deer that do not deny being totally plaster. I love the irony.

Now, would you excuse me. Sensory overload and craving for more smoked salmon.

(1) That's a Terry Pratchett reference.
(2) Fragrances marked with an asterisk are those I WANT! The wishlist will be compiled later on.

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